Midsummer week saw two Wild Side of Essex day walks for Naturetrek. The weather, as hoped, was good, albeit very breezy for the Naze and somewhat too hot for the Colne Estuary.
Being exposed and windy, it felt almost autumnal at the Naze, albeit without the migrating birds. Except that is for a flurry of Swifts, around twenty in all, that came in off the sea mid-morning, which could conceivably have been the vanguard of the July exodus. Otherwise it was summer all the way, with singing Common and Lesser Whitethroats, Blackcaps, Chiffchaffs and Cetti’s Warblers, almost all keeping stubbornly out of sight rather than exposing themselves to the teeth of the wind.
On the clifftop grassland and scrub, Sea Hog’s-fennel was just coming into flower, and in sheltered locations Large White butterflies were in huge numbers, perhaps indicating recent immigration. Other butterflies included a few Meadow Browns, Commas, Small and Essex Skippers and a Holly Blue.
The drought of the past months meant there were rather few flowers although Corky-fruited Water-dropwort, Tufted Vetch, Slender Thistle and Field Bindweed tried hard, and indeed were being much visited by insects, especially Thick-thighed Beetles.
Other insects that attracted our attention were a Yellow-and-Black Longhorn beetle; lots of Ladybirds, especially 7-spots and Harlequins; and Dock and Box Bugs.
A Lackey caterpillar, initially hiding in the foliage, proceeded to give a virtuoso performance, first crawling right out to the end of a shoot, and then back again when it realised there was nowhere else to go.
We also found a picture-winged fly Xyphosia miliaria on its larval foodplant Creeping Thistle; surprisingly this seems to be only thinly scattered across north Essex despite the ubiquity of its host.
With the clifftop copse giving some shelter, we looked out to sea for a while. No seabirds, just wind farms, ports, shipping and a sea fort…
Heading out onto the beach and saltmarsh, we passed Tamarisk in full flower, towards dune plants that included Frosted Orache, Prickly Saltwort and Marram…
… with Common Sea-lavender, Golden Samphire, Sea-purslane and Perennial Glasswort on the marsh.
The only waterbirds were feeding Oystercatchers and a Little Egret among the Black-headed Gulls, a flyover Cormorant and a lone young male Eider that seems to have foregone the opportunity of a summer break back at the Farne Islands.
The strandline produced all manner of shells from Oysters to Slipper-Limpets and Piddocks to Whelks.
Rounding the corner, the tide having receded, we found the focus of the return walk: geology. 50 million year old London Clay, variably topped with 3 million year-old Red Crag and more recent windblown loess, all telling tales of antiquity.
Pyritised wood and iron-stained Crag shells on the beach provided the mementos of the day:
And then the influence of geology on modern day wildlife, a new, clean landslip face with as many, maybe more, Sand Martin holes as I have ever seen there. We had been seeing the birds all day, together with House Martins and Swallows, but here there was a twitter of activity, including first-brood nestlings about to make the big leap.
Colt’s-foot leaves covered the unstable slopes, while a new site record for me on one of the spring-lines was Hemlock Water-dropwort , a rather uncommon plant in north Essex. And heading back to the car park, Narrow-leaved Ragwort and a fragrant flourish to finish, Wild Privet.
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Four days later for the Colne Estuary at Wivenhoe, it was much less breezy, very sunny, and extremely humid following the band of heavy rain that swept over us just a overnight. Thank goodness the heights of the Essex Alps caught the breeze during the hotter parts of the day!
Starting around the sea wall of Ferry Marsh, Reed Warblers were in song and the local speciality Dittander (duly tasted!) in full flower. Other plants like Salsify and Bristly Ox-tongue were attracting pollinators such as the hoverfly Scaeva pyrastri, with Thick-thighed Beetles in the Field Bindweed.
There were ladybirds everywhere, mostly 7-spot and Harlequin, in larval, pupal and adult states, together with a selection of other insects such as the bug Deraeocoris ruber.
A purple glow suffused the saltmarshes as Common Sea-lavender was coming into bloom, and newly sprung Marsh Samphire was no doubt a succulent treat for the grazing Canada Geese.
Then along Wivenhoe waterfront, a palimpsest of maritime activity past and present, with Swifts, House Martins and House Sparrows all in evidence, and rare plants occupying the cracks in block-paving: Jersey Cudweed and Four-leaved Allseed.
Beyond the flood barrier, the estuary widens rapidly among more natural surroundings. Barrier Marsh had singing Common Whitethroats, Linnets and Reed Buntings, a Cuckoo calling from across the river, with a few flypast Emperor and Brown Hawker dragonflies. On the mudflats there were a few Oystercatchers and Black-headed Gulls, including the first of this season’s fledged young, as Common Terns flew over, returning to the gravel pit breeding sites after fishing in the estuary.
The sea wall had flowering Strawberry Clover and Crow Garlic, the seaward side also with Shrubby Seablite and Golden Samphire, while Meadow Brown, Large White and Painted Lady butterflies skipped around.
Grange Wood is a near-unique (in the Essex context) ancient wood/tidal water interface, the shady conditions harbouring singing Chiffchaffs, Blackcaps and Song Thrushes, roaming families of Long-tailed Tits. Taking the opportunity to cool down and rehydrate, it gave us chance for a leisurely look at Herb Robert, Wood Sage and Stinging Nettles, many bearing the galls of the gall-midge Dasineura urticae, another species that is largely absent (or under-recorded?) from most of Essex, including the Tendring Peninsula…
From there it was up on to the Essex Alps, with some magnificent boundary Oaks, parched sandy fields with Common Ragwort in profusion (although very few Cinnabar caterpillars), and both Buzzards and a Red Kite overhead.
Along Cutthroat Lane, passing some magnificent clumps of Butchers’-broom, Brimstone, Ringlet and Gatekeeper butterflies were added to the day’s list before we reached Cockaynes Reserve, a remarkable example of life after gravel extraction. And not surprisingly, very droughty indeed.
Field Maple in fruit mingled with the mushroom-scented sprays of Sweet Chestnut flowers, and a myriad of solitary bees and wasps jostled for space among the flowering Common Centaury.
And all wrapped up with a stroll along the crest, catching what breeze we could, with views over the estuary as far as the open sea, and Small Coppers and Lesser Calamint (the iconic plant of the Essex Alps) at our feet completed two days full of all kinds of everything, the Wild Side of Essex at its best.